FURY

Last year i bougth a couple of vintage fur hat for recycling... In order to make real fur hat ,with real fur recycled of course . you need to have atleast these tools:
furrier cutter,fur machine,canvas,ventilate hot dry air.
Cutting fur "shell" hat for a block in 3d combine wth the part and lenght of the hair .
I finally find two head of Allbook & Hashfield fur machine for the price of a hat .
I haven't touch a fur machine since 1992 ...and fur machines are very precise and requier more specific knowledge to operate them .
I made two first hats and i need to get threads and needles to make a professional quality work .

Threads
# 140 *
# 120* Mink, Sable, Cinchilla, Fitch, Fisher, Ermine, Stonemarten
# 100* Fox, Red Fox, Blue Fox, Silver Fox, Raccoon, Weasel, Kolinski, Marmot, Muskrat, Nutria, Opossum, Pahmi, Squirrel, Otter, Lynx, Laska, Mole
# 90 Rabbit, Lamb, Persian Lamb, Raccoon, Wolf, Opossum, Gou-Pee, Marmot, Squirrel, Pahmi, Wild Cat, Kid Skin, Leopard, Goatskin, Badger
# 70 Rabbit, Gou-Pee, Wild Cat, Kid Skin, Goat Skin
# 60 Rabbit, Gou-Pee, Wild Cat, Kid Skin, Goat Skin, Lamb, Sheep, Sheered Sheep Skin Plates and Rugs

Needles
# 120 Glace Cotton 11,000 meters
35 40
22 21
# 100 Glace Cotton 11,000 meters
45 50 55
20 19 18
# 90 Glace Cotton 11,000 meters
55 60 65
18 17 16
# 80 Glace Cotton 11,000 meters
55 60 65
18 17 16
# 70 Glace Cotton 11,000 meters
65 75 85
16 14 12
# 60 Glace Cotton 11,000 meters
65 75 85
16 14 12

Kiku by Philippe Urban

Watch in Original full screen .

Preview-196 29.mov

KIKU

Stephen Jones, is inviting designers to submit a photograph or illustration of their originally designed hat for the chance to be a part of Hats: An Anthology, an exhibition hosted by the Bard Graduate Center in New York City. The exhibit is a collaboration between Stephen Jones and the V&A and has previously attracted over 350,000 visitors in London and Brisbane. The selected hat will be displayed in the Bard Graduate Center Gallery as part of the exhibition. Stephen Jones is looking for originality and creativity and encourages participants to use any kind of material - from paper to metal, fabric to feathers, card to plastic*.

Thanks to Stephen Jones,Talenthouse,Vogue UK for this "concours de circonstance" to participate this event .

I start the project 3 weeks ago with no inspiration to be very honest....
I run and watch lot of film Noir, 60 Avant Garde,Tati ,Meville,Demy,Becker, and Terence Malik movies.
Finally after 2 weeks ....
I start a long process of work in progress...

Kiku is a japanese chrysanthemum . Flowers inspire me to create this sculptural art form in millinery project .
The dimensions of the hat are technically relate to his elaboration.
- 22 meters of a vintage Milan straw braid "hand made in Italy" sew with the Bulasky zigzag machine
on 22 meters of french wire.
- 260 grams defies the gravity on a asymmetrical movement at the longest diametre of 1,32 meters.
- 36 hours of hand stitching.
The braid is continuously drawing the petals in multidimensional perspective .
The free art form illustrate my vision of impressionism in a contemporary space ; as a sculpture , a lamp design and a hat .
This project is unique and made for " Design for Stephen Jones " by Philippe Urban as milliner.
Dress from Philippe Urban
Vintage 1940 recycled dress , Japanese silk kimono panels embroided of gold Kiku.
Stephanie Lemieux plays guitar and model.
Photography is Philippe Urban
Music is Hans Zimmer from the Thin Red Line .